It makes no difference how much experience I garner, every now and
then I will do something monumentally stupid. Several weeks ago, I had a
ware board full of ramekins. I placed the board on a shelf with about
half of the board extended out over the edge of the shelf. Then I set to
work unloading the board.
Starting at the wrong end.
Almost
immediately, the ware board with all those beautiful ramekins began
tipping like an insane seesaw causing several ramekins to "introduce"
them selves to the floor. Sancho Panza put it best when he said,
"...whether the stone hits the pitcher or the pitcher hits the stone,
it's going to be bad for the pitcher."
I lost four ramekins to
that little act of idiocy, but it's interesting what such a disaster can
tell you. Not so much about my working methods, but about the product I
make.
Many years ago (actually, it was decades ago), I was
working in the pottery studio of a private school. I actually worked in
the kitchen of that school, but they allowed me to putter about in the
pottery studio when I was not at work. It kept body and soul together
for the few months I was there. The students were aghast at my habit of
cutting pots I had just thrown in half so that I could see how the wall
of the pot looked. I can remember the teacher telling them, "You guys
should be doing that more often."
I rarely cut pots in half these
days. I don't really need to as the lesson of an even wall has been well
learned. Still, it's always interesting to look at the profile of a pot
when it meets an untimely end. And truth be told, I have actually
broken pots on purpose to get the sort of information the little beauty
in the picture above revealed.
So what can I tell from what I see? Three things.
First,
I can see that the wall is nice and even. No surprise there. You may
also notice the slightly thicker rim. That makes the pot less prone to
warping during manufacture and chipping during use.
Second, I see
that the pot only broke into about four pieces - most of them quite
large. That means that the pot is extremely strong. A weaker vessel
would shatter into a lot of small pieces.
Third, I see that the
glaze perfectly follows the same break pattern as the clay. That means
the glaze fit is exceptionally good. I knew that, given the tests I put
the glazes through. But it's good to see it up close.
Most people
don't realize it, but a glaze has to fit the clay it's applied to
perfectly. The critical measurement is what happens when the pots cool
in the kiln. Everything expands while heating and contracts while
cooling. If the glaze contracts more than the clay does, it will be
under a lot of tension. In a case like that, something has to give, and
the glaze will form a fine network of stress cracks. Potters call this
crazing. Crazing weakens a pot and will inevitably shorten its life.
Some glazes are specially formulated to produce the same crackle pattern
seen in crazing without causing problems for the pot, but crazing as a
gaze flaw is something to be avoided.
If the clay shrinks more
than the glaze, then the glaze can pop off, resulting in tiny, razor
sharp pieces of glass that can end up in the food or beverage the pot
was holding. This problem is called shivering and it is one issue that
can keep a potter up at night.
Ideally, a glaze should shrink slightly
less than the clay, but not enough to cause shivering. That assures
that the pot will be the strong and last a good long time in normal use.
And
the best way to prove the strength of a pot is to break it on purpose -
or, in this case, by accident - and see how many or few pieces it
breaks into. The fewer the pieces, the stronger the pot. If the glaze
margins align perfectly with the edges of the broken clay, the glaze fit
is perfect.
I make high quality pottery. The picture proves it.
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